#1
Start with new rotors or cut the used rotors on a brake
finishing lathe using sharp bits and correct feed speeds. As always, best
results will be achieved by closely following the
set-up and maintenance instructions in the lathe
owners manual. (Note: We have found the
newer style GWR
"Round Lathe
Bits" produce consistent, lower RA finishes that
standard bits)
#2
Use the new, patented Flex-Hone
for Rotors on both friction
surfaces of the new or turned rotors, to create and O.E. style cross-hatch. (Note: An angle head,
electric drill is highly recommended as it's
speed is more constant and rotational torque is almost
eliminated). It only takes about 20 seconds to
"re-profile the surface" and create the perfect
bedding surface for your new pad. Simply move the spinning
tool across the surface (in and out motion) about five times and
then make one slow pass from inside to outside to make a final
symmetrical pattern. (Note: Contrary to popular
belief, laboratory
testing has determined sand paper or round discs do not
produce the proper rotor finish needed to control the burnish of
a new pad.)
#3
Thoroughly clean the friction
surfaces and hat area of the rotor with
GWR
Brake-Soap
and water solution... using a
hand scrub brush. It has been proven in the
laboratory that this helps to demagnetize and then remove imbedded micro fine steel particles
significantly better
than aerosol brake cleaners. When scrubbing is finished,
rinse completely with clean water and then air
dry.
#4
Spray a very light, even coat of the Silencer - Brake Conditioning
Treatment on both sides (friction surfaces) of the
rotor. Be sure to shake the can well to completely
disperse the solid particles into the synthetic carrier the
Silencer treatment uses, to deliver them to the rotor.
(Notes: You don't need a lot of this product to do the job
correctly, only a light single coating of the rotor is
necessary. Additionally, no drying time is required before assembly or
driving.)
A little freebie tip... You can spray a light coat of
GWR "Silencer" on calipers and the entire rotor, to eliminate
rusting in harsh environments or extended winter storage
periods. It will leave a beautiful silver
appearance that last for years because it's impervious to water,
snow, salt, heat, cold and other conditions. Additionally,
it does not get sticky or effect brake action so you don't have
to remove it before putting stored vehicles into service each
season.
WARNING: Several packaging companies have attempted to
copy or duplicate the OE Approved "Silencer-Brake
Conditioning Treatment" in recent years. What's most interesting is... most came to GWR and ask us to private
label the real Silencer for them first. Why? Because it
works, it is safe and they did not have the expertise to do it
themselves! Unfortunately for the driving public, when we quoted them prices they all
said "you are to expensive, we can make it for about a $1 a can!"
Well, they're right! You can make it for $1 a can.
If you leave out the real synthetic carrier, leave out the special high pressure
synthetic oils, leave out the anti-corrosive agents, leave out the
expensive moly powder, leave out the specially shaped particulates of
aluminum and graphite, etc,
etc.
As you can imagine... these companies did go forward and
make their own cheap versions because major profits were
anticipated. To reduce the cost, they used
petroleum for the carrier and eliminated most of the other
important components we include! The question is "can
you", the consumer or shop, afford to take a chance on
these Non OEM Approved and potentially dangerous brake products when
it comes to your own car, or that of your customers?"
Worse can you depend on chemical "packaging" companies to be
experts in the brake business???
If you are in doubt about a product you
are using or are thinking of using, just check the ingredients
listed on the label of the can. If you find Mineral
Spirits or Stoddard Solvent listed, the product can "not" be
used on brake rotors without voiding the new pad warrantee and
making them unsafe! Simply stated, "no product other than
"the Silencer" is a "Real Synthetic" formulation. All the
copies are base on petroleum products and lack the important
ingredients that are required to give the long lasting desired
results... no brake noise!
You have our word, based on over 30 years in the business, none
of the copies are even close to our original Silencer product!
Neither do they share the national and international awards,
accolades, O.E.M. endorsements or safety level. If you have
been told any other brake conditioner is equal to or better than
Silencer... please call GWR and let us know. We would like
to tell you the whole story and explain the real difference
between the original and the copies. Additionally, we'll
show you why there are safety issues involved that "will" affect
you personally. Thanks, GWR
#5
Coat caliper piston face (where pad back plate contact occurs), guide landing ears, caliper brackets, mounting bolt threads,
the rust free hat area at center of rotor (thoroughly clean before turning if any
rust is present) and any other metal to metal contact points with
Pastelub-2400 Ultra
Hi-Temp Synthetic Dry-film lubricant. (Note: Do not
use low temp greases (300º to 700º) or any type silicone for
this application as they will break down and additionally cause
contamination to friction surfaces.) Additionally, we now
recommend our new
Ceramlub-2800
for all rubber to metal caliper bushings or assemblies.
This incredible new lubricant is far superior to all silicone
type lube products commonly used on slide pins, etc.
#6 Assemble per recommended O.E.
procedures, using new brake hardware, then test drive the vehicle.
VERY IMPORTANT: Initially make about 20 to 30 ultra
light pedal "slow downs" from 30 mph to 5 mph
but do not completely "stop" the vehicle. Next
make 20 to 30 "full stops" from 30 mph but not panic
style.
Be sure to allow about 1
to 2 minutes for cool down between each slowing or stopping
cycle. This is critical because it allows the rotors and pads to
adjust to each other and for embedded temperature increases to bleed off.
This break in procedure may seem extreme to some technician, but
this is the "only" way to properly burnish a new set of pads to
a rotor... intense dyno and road testing has proven it. (Be sure to tell customers no panic stops for at least 300 miles,
the average "real burnish period".
This light and then heavier stopping procedure, properly
burnishes the Silencer's micro-fine particles into the friction
surfaces and adjusts (conditions) the burnish process. The goal
is to slow down the burnish and control the pressures and
higher burnishtemperatures the new pad is exposed to for the
longest period of
time. The hotter and harder a pad is pushed during it break in
period (post cure) the harder it becomes and therefore the worse
the performance. There are several laboratory measurements in
our industry, including FEI (Friction Energy Index), Coefficient of Friction,
D3EA, (Multi Variable Dyno Evaluation), BEEP (Brake
Effectiveness Evaluation Procedure), Torque, etc. used to
determine friction performance. By using GWR's five
steps and products, you will improve a vehicles test numbers by
up to 8%. This proves to be not only a better feeling,
noise free pad but the vehicle actually stops shorter and is
safer.
SPECIALS!
ALL THE ABOVE COMPONENTS IN ONE KIT....
GWR
Starter Kits
Get all the parts in one kit at very
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